enchiladas de mole

 This dish has some yummy elements that I am sure if we look at the chemical composition of the flavour molecules of certain ingredients, they must look alike or lock well together; whatever it is, Mole Enchiladas do taste delicious, and I think that this is to do with the combination of ingredients.  Simple ingredients like corn tortillas, a well poached juicy chicken, mole, raw onions and sesame seeds and of course a little crumbled cheese.  These ingredients combine so well that a good dish of enchiladas de mole is memorable.

To start your very own memorable experience of making enchiladas de mole -like with ALL cooking you will need to have good ingredients, so I would suggest a good bird, yes an expensive one that has had a good life, one that has been able to see the sun, to walk about and that has been properly fed, a good organic chicken that is going to produce superb stock and most important juicy meat for the enchiladas.  Poach the chicken in plenty of water with half an onion, a couple of peeled cloves of garlic, some bay leaves and a little salt.  To poach a chicken perfectly, it is important that you never allow your liquid to come to the boil, otherwise horrible scum will form.  If you keep your bird in its water just below boiling point, the stock will be clear as water and keep its flavour.  Pass the stock through a colander or sieve and reserve to make the mole sauce later on.

I think the best parts of the chicken for enchiladas are the legs, just for the reason that they are more juicy.  Once the chicken is poached, cool down and then shred it with your fingers, reserve, always submerged in some of the chicken stock, this is so that the chicken does not dry.

Make your mole sauce… I am not suggesting here that you go and grind 40 ingredients on your knees on your metate as you would make a cup of coffee; the whole process is quite complicated.  These days you can get good brands of mole: Dona Maria and Xiqueno are good brands, the former being a commercial brand available in many parts of the world and the latter one, an obscure brand from Veracruz that is just delicious.  Make your mole sauce by sauteing the mole paste in a little sesame oil and then add a little chicken stock, whisking and stirring all the time to avoid lumps.  Add a little stock and stir constantly, add a little more and so on, until you have a good thick sauce, with a similar consistency to that of creme anglaise, custard, double cream or heavy cream.

Proceed with your tortillas.  You can make your own, or you can buy them… always corn ones -flour tortillas work for other things, but not for enchiladas de mole.  Sautee the tortillas in a little hot oil for a couple of seconds, literally pass them on hot oil and then dip them in the mole sauce, put on a plate and put some of the shredded chicken on one half, fold the tortilla in half; this is one enchilada.  Repeat the process so that you have three enchiladas on one plate.  Pour some mole sauce over the enchiladas, sprinkle some crumbled cheese like fetta, decorate with chopped onion or some onion rings and scatter plenty of sesame seeds on top.  Some people pour some soured cream on top as well.

Put a napkin on and never wear white -mole sauce stains clothes forever! and sit down and enjoy every mouthful of Enchiladas de Mole!!!

Thank you for the comments on my blog, thank you February for being here, promising more light and better weather and thank you customers and people that employ me, I shall not get so discouraged, work always comes to me and January lasts for 31 days and I will try to keep this blog more up to date more often!

… some thoughts on Mole

My blogger chum Chad asked me recently to write something on Mole.  At the time I was a bit busy and I think this was also a subconscious excuse not to write on the subject… The reason is that for a Mexican to write on Mole is getting into sticky ground; every Mexican has his/her views on the matter and they are the best, full stop!

In the UK people relate the word to little creatures that live underground, to The Wind in the Willows, to that ‘Mexican chocolate sauce’, or worse still to eating little animals that live underground covered with a chocolate sauce!  Nothing could be further from the truth; to write about Mole is to write about our identity as Mexicans, to write about our history, to touch on many aspects of our folcklore, it is to write about flavour combinations and even to write about food science, it is to challenge families and to create rivalries through recipes…. it can become a telenovela… yes we Mexicans are a complicated lot.

In fact I did think to write my dissertation on Mole… but since this is just a blog, I am going to say just a few simple things.  For instance, did you know that it is believed the word ‘mole’ is derived from an indigenous word, possibly nahuatl: ‘molli’ or ‘mulli’ which means sauce? I have also heard it is derived from the Spanish verb ‘moler’ which is to grind… see? it is not that easy with this sauce.

The origins of mole are also unclear, some say that it existed well before the arrival of the Spaniards and yes many of the ingredients are original to Mexico and the american continent.  There are tales of Spanish and creole nuns, like Sor Andrea de la Asuncion, who was famed for her ability to create perfect food -a kind of 17th century Heston Blumenthal, who concocted this divine dish for the viceroy in turn and other celebrities of the time.  This story might well be true; it could also be related to an appropriation of the indigenous by the colonials… The story that I like best, because is full of folklore, it touches on the kitsch and again it is similar to a telenovela (soap opera) involves a nun, a saint, a draw full of spices and a bit of magic of course… The nun might well have been Sor Andrea de la Asuncion, and how she was completely burnt out from so much cooking and therefore felt uninspired; the guests were coming to eat her latest delicacy and she just did not know what to cook that day.  As it was the norm, she asked San Pascualito-the patron saint of cooks and of the kitchen to help her. Then she turned, stumbled against a draw that was full of spices that went on the pot and hey presto: Mole anyone?  I wonder what do they do on a stressful day at The Fat Duck? maybe we should tell them about San Pascualito.

Whatever story you go for, the truth is that Mole is a kind of national dish to Mexico, the state of Puebla is famed for its Mole and the state of Oaxaca is called the land of 7 moles.  If you go to any Mexican market you will find mole sold by the kilo and of course families pride themselves in making their own family recipe which is usually a secret.

A good Mole can have up to 40 different ingredients, but the basic ones are: chillies, usually ancho, pasilla and mulato, garlic, onion, sesame oil, sesame seeds, oregano, marjoram, some day old tortillas, bananas, raisins, almonds, possibly a little stale bread and many more.  Traditionally all these ingredients are ground on a metate, by hand and then fried with lard.  The final ingredient is a little bit of bitter chocolate, which is essential to add flavour and a velvety texture.  This will resemble a heavy paste and to make the sauce, we add stock from a poached bird; turkey being the traditonal one to use -although these days more eclectic birds like duck and even other kinds of game are used.  The poached bird is covered with this sauce and served decorated with sesame seeds; this is a far cry to some people’s ideas of eating a chicken mixed with hot fudge sauce!

Being someone that really goes more for the sensation that food has on my tastebuds rather than for the looks of the restaurant or who is sitting at the next table; I’ll have to say that poached turkey topped with a heavy Mole sauce scattered with some sesame seeds in some busy convent like restaurant is not my favourite way of eating this… to me Mole can be one of those memorable food moments that I would take to a desert island…in fact Mole is included in my funeral!   At least to me the best way is to eat it is in the shape of Enchiladas de Mole.

In my next post I will write on Enchiladas de Mole and why I like them.  This might not be the aristocratic or trendy way of eating mole… but it is so very good!

Mexican cookery classes Jan – May 2012

From Tacos to Taqueria

Mexico’s favourite fast food, Tacos, have grown in popularity and sophistication. No longer just the reserve of the street food vendor, Tacos have also made it into specialist cafes known as Taquerias. Join Mexican native, Sofia Larrinua-Craxton for a Taco hands on masterclass and learn how to make your own Corn and Wheat Tortillas (Taco Wraps), Al Pastor (Pork marinated and chargrilled with Pineapple), Steak Tacos and Alambre (Grilled Meat with Peppers, Cheese, Bacon and Chorizo). You’ll also make a Tomatillo Salsa, Drunken Salsa, and the Mexican condiment Pico de Gallo.

Date Thursday 23 Feb

Time 18:30 – 21:30

At Divertimenti Cookery School Marylebone High St.

To book click here

Mexican Fiesta

With over 40 first cousins back home in Mexico, Sofia has plenty of experience catering for big family parties. Celebratory fiestas for birthdays, weddings, christenings and even football victories – you name it, Sophia has a festive menu of fresh dishes to complement the occasion. Join her for a party masterclass where you’ll learn how to prepare some classic Mexican dishes and get an introduction to using chillies and salsa making. Recipes include Fish Cooked in Escabeche (Fried or Poached), Slow Cooked Lamb in Adobo Marinade, Salads of Char-grilled Peppers & Corn with lots of Zesty Lime and Wild Mushroom Quesadillas.

Date Wednesday 21 Mar

Time 18:30 – 21:30

At Divertimenti Cookery School Brompton Rd.

To book click here

Tamales Masterclass

If you’ve been to Mexico, you’ve probably been lured in by steamy pots containing freshly made tamales. These delicous edible parcels are eaten widely throughout Mexico and Central America. Join Mexican chef Sofia as she takes you on a delicious journey, sharing all she knows on the subject of tamales. You’ll make traditional versions as well as explore local versions like Tabasco-style Duck Tamales in Achlote Sauce, Tamal de Cazuela (festival meat-filled tamal pie wrapped in banana leaves) and Yucatán Green Tamales with Spinach & Coriander. Start the class off with a traditional Mexican Hot Chocolate as you work your way through the dishes, then sit down to feast on the fruits of your labour.

Date Saturday 28 Apr

Time 11:00 – 14:30

At Divertimenti Cookery School, Brompton Rd.

To book click here 

Mexican Street Food

Learn how to make spicy and delicious Mexican street food with the wonderful Sofia Craxton. Sofia will show you how to make salsas and marinades, tamales, tortillas, quesadillas and sopes – fabulous foods that is sold on Mexican streets and in local markets. The day will include grilled fish in Yucatan style recado served with habanero relish; Morelia grilled chicken in guajillo adobo served with sauteed country potatoes; corn tortillas; tamales; quesadillas; steak and flame grilled pepper tacos with chargrilled salsa; Shepherd style tacos served with drunken salsa and a spicy prawn broth. You will be welcome with a Cookery School breakfast on arrival. Organic red and white wines will be served with the meal.

Date Saturday 18 Feb

Time 10 – 14.30

At Cookery School at Little Portland St.

To book a place click here

Tex-Mex Flavours

Join Mexican born Sofia Larrinua-Craxton, who will be showing you her secrets of making delicious Tex-Mex food. Tex-Mex differs from classic Mexican cooking and it has an established repertoire of old favourites that we are going to prepare. We are going to learn how to make tortillas and wraps from scratch. We will be making deicious wild mushroom quesadillas and you will learn how to make flame-grilled salsas and of course the best Chile con carne in the county. This class promises a lot of flavour, a lot of fun, so put on your boots and come along!

Date: Saturday 12th May

At Denman College in Abingdon,  Oxfordshire To book click here

Caldo de Camaron

I am a guest chef at Cool Chile Co.  My contribution is my late father’s signature dish “Caldo de Camaron”, a heartwarming soup eaten at Mexican cantinas.

Try this on a cold day, it will warm your soul up.

For really good quality Mexican ingredients click here

For the recipe click here

Enjoy and have a wonderful warm Christmas.

Flavours of Yucatan at Marylebone!

The food from the Yucatán area of Mexico is a cuisine in itself. Drawing from Mayan styles of cooking, combined with Caribbean ingredients and Spanish techniques, the result is food packed with flavours that explode in the mouth. For this class Sofia brings you traditional favourites that have made this cuisine famous for its delicate and exotic flavours. You’ll learn how to prepare Chicken & Lime Soup, Slow Cooked Pork with Pibil spices, Panuchos or hand-made Tortillas filled with Beans and topped with Chicken, served with Soured Orange Salad and Habanero Relish, Yucatán style Fried Plantains and Eggs Motul style (the Yucatán version of Huevos Rancheros). The flavours you’ll discover will brighten up even the darkest winter day!

Where: Divertimenti Cookery School, Marylebone High Street

When: Saturday 19th November 2011

Time:  11 am – 14.30 pm

Price £105 for a cookery demo followed by a hands-on class.

To book click here

Summer schedule of cookery classes. Sofia Craxton

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At Divertimenti

May 18th   18.30 – 21.30  at  Marylebone

Tacos to Taquerias.  Hands-on Masterclass.-  Mexico’s favourite fast food, Tacos, have grown in popularity and sophistication. No longer the reserve of the humble street vendor, Tacos have made it into specialist cafés known as Taquerias. Join Mexican native, Sofia Larrinua-Craxton for a Taco hands on masterclass and learn how to make your own corn and wheat tortillas (Taco Wraps), Al Pastor (pork marinated and chargrilled with pineapple), Steak Tacos and Alambre (grilled meat with peppers and cheese, bacon and chorizo). You’ll also make Tomatillo Salsa, Drunken Salsa, and the Mexican condiment Pico de Gallo.

June 20th 18.30 – 21.30 at Brompton

Mexican Marinades, Adobos and Rubs.  Hands-on Masterclass.-  Join Mexican food expert Sofia Larrinua-Craxton for a BBQ special. During this class you will learn how to prepare classic marinades such as Pibil (perfect for pork or chicken), Yucatan Recado (for steaks or fish), Red Adobo with Chipotles (for red meat), and Acapulco-style Fish Ceviche with a Coriander Dressing for potatoes. Sofia will also show you how to put together a selection of tangy salsas to accompany the main meal.

July 14th 11.00 – 14.30 at Brompton

Fresh Summer Suppers.  Hands-on Masterclass.- Make the most of summer’s bounty with help from keen home-grower Sofia Larrinua-Craxton. Sofia will teach you how to combine seasonal herbs and vegetables to produce a variety of exciting recipes including Trout on a bed of Cucumber, Yoghurt & Pistachios, Aubergines and Courgettes with Honey, Mint & Sesame, and Rhubarb and Ginger Pavlova.

July 19th 11.00-14.30 at Brompton

Make me a Mezze.  Hands-on Masterclass.- Sip traditional Turkish tea as Sofia introduces some of the key ingredients that make this style of food so special. Then get stuck into preparing a selection of classic Mezze dishes including Spinach and Yoghurt Borek, Fish cooked in Vine Leaves, Imam Bayildi (Stuffed Aubergines) and Kisir Salad. A class that promises to be delicious and great fun as well!

At Books for Cooks

May 12th 11.00 am – 13.00

Vegetarian Mexican Street Food .  Cookery demo with food.- Mexico simmers with intriguing dishes and nowhere is its rich storehouse of flavours more evident than in the colourful open air mercados. These little meat-free dishes of Mexico are fabulous served as appetizers or in combination to make a meal. Broaden your culinary horizons and bring an authentic taste of Mexico to your table.

June 30th  11.00 – 13.00

The Well-Dressed Salad.- Give salad greens a sensational new spin with an exciting collection of recipes guaranteed to bring a little zest and sunshine to the most tired of palates. Sofia Craxton delivers fresh inspirations for seasonal salads that are perfect for informal lunches, dinner with friends, or after-work meals.

At CookerySchool at Little Portland Street

23 July 2011 10am – 2.30pm


Mexican Street Food  Hands-on Masterclass and Brunch.- Learn how to make spicy and delicious Mexican street food with the wonderful Sofia Craxton. Sofia will show you how to make salsas and marinades, tamales, tortillas, quesadillas and sopes – fabulous foods that is sold on Mexican streets and in local markets. The day will include grilled fish in Yucatan style recado served with habanero relish; Morelia grilled chicken in guajillo adobo served with sauteed country potatoes; corn tortillas; tamales; quesadillas; steak and flame grilled pepper tacos with chargrilled salsa; Shepherd style tacos served with drunken salsa and a spicy prawn broth. You will be welcome with a Cookery School breakfast on arrival. Organic red and white wines will be served with the meal.

Calendar of Cookery Classes January – May 2011

Calendar of Cookery Classes:

At Books for Cooks

Fresh, Fabulous & Fuss-Free Vegetarian

Saturday 29th January  11am  £40

Ditch the winter stodge with this collection of sophisticated seasonal vegetarian recipes from Sofia Craxton and a class that makes all diners welcome with sumptuous and satisfying dishes for vegetarians, meat lovers and everyone in between.

Slow Cooking

Thursday 17th February  11am  £40

Slow cooking makes a nice change from the frantic pace of everyday life. It can be done pleasurably, at leisure, well in advance. Slow-cooking gives great depth of flavour and transforms everyday, cheap cuts in truly exceptional dishes for friends and family.

Cook Now, Dine Later

Saturday 19th March 11 am  £40

Cookbook author Sofia Craxton presents an essential class that places speed and ease at a premium with a smart, stylish menu that can be prepared ahead of time so you can relax and enjoy the dinner party!

Vegetarian Mexican Street Food

Saturday  2nd April  11am   £40

Mexico simmers with intriguing dishes and nowhere is its rich storehouse of flavours more evident than in the colourful open air mercados. These little meat-free dishes of Mexico are fabulous served as appetizers or in combination to make a meal. Broaden your culinary horizons ad bring an authentic taste of Mexico to your table with Sofia Craxton.

At Divertimenti

Tex Mex – Hands On Masterclass

Tuesday 25th January   18.30 pm.  Brompton.  £105   SOLD OUT

Join Mexican chef Sofia Larrinua-Craxton for an authentic Tex-Mex masterclass. Learn how to make real Chilli, Slow Cooked Lamb Barbacoa, Corn and Flour Tortillas for Quesadillas, Tex-Mex Sopapillas, and Grilled Salsa. So don your sombrero, park the mule outside and stroll into this class with a swagger worthy of John Wayne.

Lebaneasy – Hands On Masterclass

Tuesday 8th February 11 am.   Marylebone.   £105
With its easy to make zingy salads, grilled meats and preserved lemons, Lebanese food is quickly becoming one of the nation’s favourite cuisines. Join Sofia Larrinua-Craxton and learn how to prepare a selection of authentic Lebanese dishes, including cheese based Labneh and Shanklish and street foods like Shawarma. You’ll also learn how to make Syrian bread and some of the most popular mezze salads such as Fatoush and Tabboule

World Street Food – Hands On Masterclass

Tuesday 29 Mar 18.30 pm.  Marylebone £105

The rise in popularity of global street food is at the forefront of modern dining trends. Affordable and authentic, street food provides an insight into a country’s culinary influences and is enjoyed by all sections of the population. Join Sofia Larrinua-Craxton and learn how to prepare an international selection of dishes including Vietnamese Pho and Summer Rolls, Turkish Lahmacun and Ezme Salad, irresistible Indonesian Nasi Goreng, Malaysian Laksa, and Mexican Corn Cake.

Tapas – Hands On Masterclass

Tuesday 12 Apr 18:30 pm.  Brompton £105

Whether eaten as a bar snack or as a main meal, Tapas is a Spanish culinary tradition that the UK has really taken to. Join Sofia Larrinua-Craxton for a Tapas hands on masterclass and learn how to create a delicious selection of sharing plates including Txangurro (Crab from San Sebastian) Galician Empanada & Tapas de Tierra (such as Albondigas or Meatballs),and Rare Sirloin Steak with Duck Pâté and White Grape Sauce.

At Cookery School

Mexican Masterclass

Saturday 15 January 10am £130.                            SOLD OUT

Learn how to make spicy and delicious Mexican street food with the wonderful Sofia Craxton. Sofia will show you how to make salsas and marinades, tamales, tortillas, quesadillas and sopes – fabulous foods that is sold on Mexican streets and in local markets. The day will include grilled fish in Yucatan style recado served with habanero relish; Morelia grilled chicken in guajillo adobo served with sauteed country potatoes; corn tortillas; tamales; quesadillas; steak and flame grilled pepper tacos with chargrilled salsa; Shepherd style tacos served with drunken salsa and a spicy prawn broth. You will be welcome with a Cookery School breakfast on arrival. Organic red and white wines will be served with the meal.

Mexican Street Food
Monday 21st March 6.30 am £ 90

The day will include grilled Morelia grilled chicken in guajillo adobo served with sauteed country potatoes; corn tortillas and steak and flame grilled pepper tacos with chargrilled salsa; Shepherd style tacos served with drunken salsa a spicy prawn broth and wild mushroom tamales.

Recipe for Mexican Ponche de Navidad

The evocative power of food, its flavours and aromas can be used to take us back to long and forgotten corners of our mind.  Periods like Christmas are of course charged with a variety of memories, so each one of us have our personal catalogue of food experiences that relate to certain moments of our lives.

It is no surprise that for some, the aroma or roasted chestnuts on a cold corner is equivalent to Christmas and for others, the flavour of ginger biscuits or of Bacalao is the marker of this time.

For some of us, the smell of tropical fruits slowly poaching in a syrup are instant reminders of this period.  In Mexico ponche de Navidad is a delicious and warming drink that takes me back to posada parties.

What is a posada? The word literally translates as inn, and this is a representation of the journey that the Virgin Mary and St Joseph did at the time of the birth of baby Jesus, that culminated in barn and manger.

Like most things, these parties have changed with time, but the format remains the same: a street procession that stops and chants a litany which culminates at the house of the hosts of the posada –or the place where the party is going to take place.  The joyous entry to the house by those outside and the subsequent pinata breaking, food sharing and ponche drinking!

It is the combination of fruits and the sweet aroma of a lightly spiced syrup, simmering somewhere that gives this drink a particularly strong power for memory of cold nights in Mexico.  The smell of sweet sugar-cane and guavas, tejocotes and cinnamon, always take me right back to my childhood and I can again see and hear things that lie otherwise dormant in my mind: my younger parents, the unique feeling of attempting to break a pinata, the sounds of children laughing.  Sometimes it is worth forgetting about food miles for once and make some proper ponche just for the memories.

Here is a simple recipe, if you live away from the tropics, it might be difficult to find some fruits, I give alternatives in the recipe below.  Try doing this at this cold time of year, repeat doing this and you will see how with time, this evocative drink will take you back to good memories.

Cultivate your future memories by having good times now!

Recipe for ponche de Navidad

Makes about 3 litres

20 tejocotes –these are quite particular to Mexico, if you can’t find substitute with 10 quartered apricots and 4 green apples in chunks

7 guavas, cut in wedges

3 Tbsp raisins

10 prunes

about half a kilo of sugar-cane chunks –found in caribbean shops

4 Tbsp dried apples

2 sticks of cinnamon

3 litres of water

muscovado sugar

Begin by making the syrup, dissolve sugar in water –I have deliberately omitted quantities here, add enough so that it tastes nice and sweet to you.

Add the fruits and bring to below boiling point, simmer gently until the fruits soften and poach, the syrup should be slightly thicker at this point.

Before serving add some piquete a dash or rum or brandy to give it extra warming properties.

Serve in cups with a few fruits.

** If you have a memory of ponche that you want to share here, please add a comment.  My memory now is of a posada at secondary school aged 13, with my friend Marcelita, on a very cold day and how my father threw himself to get some goodies at the pinata with the kids!

How to make Mexican pan dulce

One aspect of Mexican cuisine that seems to be a little overlooked is that of bread-making.  Although Mexico is not a country that has strong associations to bread as it is the case in many other places around the world, and although we are mostly associated to tortillas; there is actually quite a strong tradition of bread making that we inherited through European colonialism and which became firmly established during the years of Empire in the nineteenth century.

It is particularly during the short period in which Mexico became subject to the puppet emperor Maximilian, where traditions of European influence became adopted by the elites.  This included the introduction of bread-making, particularly that of making sweet confections that included pastry, elaborate biscuits and a variety of other items made out of sweetened dough.

As it tends to happen in Mexico, these items were adapted to locality and they took their own shapes and names; so it can be an amusing and strange experience for a foreign person to go and buy ears, gendarmes (or policemen), banderillas (or a hurting device that gets stuck on the back of a bull during a bull fight), shells, bows, rhombs and of course the once yearly Bread of the Dead.

It is not difficult to recreate these confections and recently I made a batch of conchas or shells that we consumed with gusto whilst accompanied with my Mexican parents.  They the big judges actually loved them.

The recipe is taken from Diana Kennedy’s El Arte de la Cocina Mexicana. I have done very small adaptations.  Be aware, this recipe takes a long time to make, but if you have time and with a little preparation you can have a fun weekend of making bread with delicious results at the end of the day.  Since the recipe is so long you might want to make a large batch and then freeze the bread.  To enjoy from frozen, simply place in a warm oven to defrost and warm through and enjoy with a cup of steaming coffee or hot chocolate.

Makes about 16 conchas

Begin by making a first ferment or siembra for the bread, many Mexican breads begin by making a first ferment that is used for the confection of the various types of sweet bread including bread of the dead:

250 g strong bread flour

one sachet [8g] of dried yeast

2 Tbsp warm water

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

Put the flour in a bowl.  In a small bowl, crumble the yeast and mix with the warm water, beat well to obtain a paste, add this paste to the flour and eggs, beat well using the dough hook attachment of a food mixer for a couple of minutes, the dough has to be soft and sticky.  Add a tiny bit more flour so that the dough comes off the bowl, take out and place on a lightly floured surface, using your hands, fold it so that it looks like a round cushion and put on a baking tray that has been covered with some greaseproof paper, make three diagonal cuts across and leave to rise in a warm place for a couple of hours, until it doubles its size.

Use half of this ferment and freeze the rest, if you want you can use all the ferment, in which case it will be necessary to double up the quantities below.

Now you are ready to make the main dough:

Cut the ferment into large chunks, place in the mixing bowl and add the following:

500 g strong flour

180 g sugar

½ tsp salt

45 g soft butter

4 large eggs, lightly beaten

60 ml warm water

Beat the ferment and the ingredients using a dough hook for 8 minutes at a medium-high speed, the dough needs to be soft, sticky with a shiny gloss and it should stick together.  Add a little flour so that the dough comes off the mixing bowl.  Again place on a lightly floured surface and fold to make a round cushion shape.  Butter a large bowl and place the dough in it.  Sprinkle with a little flour and cover with cling film and a tea-towel, leave in a warm place for 2 hours or until it has doubled in size.  After this period, place in the least cold part of the fridge and leave it to ferment for 8 hours or overnight.

Before finishing with this process, make the butter and sugar cover for the breads, for this you will need:

125 g plain flour

125 g icing sugar

60 g butter at room temperature

2 tablespoons cocoa

1 tablespoon cinnamon

Sieve the flour and icing sugar and add the butter, mix well using your fingers or whiz using the food processor, you are aiming to have a soft dough.  Divide in two portions, add the cocoa to one and the cinnamon to the other one, incorporate well.  Cover and set aside.

After the long fermentation period, put the dough on a lightly floured surface and turn it into a cushion without pushing too hard, you don’t want to lose the bubbles formed during the fermentation period, divide the dough in four and then in four again in order to obtain 16 pieces, it is wise to weigh the pieces, they should be about 60 g each:

Place some greaseproof paper on three baking trays.  Make a dough ball rolling the pieces of dough and place on the trays, leaving a space of about 8 cm in between each piece.                                                                                                                                                     Divide the chocolate and cinnamon sugar mixtures in eight small pieces each and roll into rounds that you will flatten using the palms of your hands, press until you have a sheet that is slightly larger than the bread ball:

Place this over the bread ball and press firmly over the dough ball, flattening it a little and repeat with all the bread pieces. Once you have done this, proceed to make the cuts; using a sharp knife, cut into the sugar paste making diagonal incissions:


Leave to rest in a warm place for –yes you guessed another two hours, or until the bread rises once more from this:

To this:

Heat up the oven to 190C.  Place the trays in the oven and bake for twelve minutes or until they puff up and turn golden brown:

Now they are ready to be eaten!

Although this process seems interminable, it actually works perfecty for a weekend at home, start on Saturday morning, carry on with your life and do the fermentations during the day, leave the dough in the fridge overnight and continue on Sunday am, you should have bread ready to dunk into hot chocolate sometime around brunch time!

Pan de Muerto / Bread of the Dead

Pan de muerto / Bread of the dead

It is that ime of the year again, the one where evenings get longer and when spooky ghosts will knock on our doors.  In the area where we live, it seems that the number of ghosts grow exponentially each year, we started with 10 and now there seem to be hundreds of kids knocking for tricks or treats.  This is a nice thing and I like to see our road full of little witches, ghosts and vampires, I like to see carved lanterns and it is all quite picturesque.

What I also like is to put a small altar with flowers to my ‘abuela’ Enriqueta, to my second  mother Alisi and to my ’muertitos’ to our dead ones, to remember them with a small and colourful offering which will include pan de muerto, this bread is typical of Mexico and it has lots of symbolism, it made in a round shape to signify the world, it has small pieces of dough attached and these signify bones, and it is always made only at this time of year.  It is very nice served with Mexican Hot Chocolate or Cafe de Olla here is a recipe:

Pan de Muerto  (Bread of the Dead)

Makes 1 large bread

1 x 7g sachet ‘fast action’ dried yeast

100 ml warm milk

500 g flour

150 g plus 2 Tbsp caster sugar

4 eggs, beaten

the juice and zest of 1 small orange, about 35 ml juice

1 tsp vanilla essence

50 g soft butter

½ tsp crushed caraway seeds (optional)

Put the oven to 180 C conventional /  160 C fan / Gas Mark 4

Activate the yeast by dissolving it in the warm milk and add 2 teaspoons of the sugar.

Sieve the flour into the bowl of an electric mixer such as a Kitchen Aid or Kenwood, add the sugar and salt plus the optional caraway seeds and the orange zest.  Add the yeast mixture and mix well.  Add the liquid ingredients except for the butter and using the flat paddle or the attachment for bread, mix at a medium speed for 5 minutes. Add the softened butter and continue mixing for 10 more minutes.  The dough should look very elastic and translucent.  Cover the bowl with cling film or a moist tea towel and leave to rise for a couple of hours in a draught free place or overnight in the fridge.  Punch the dough and put on a floured surface.

Cut ¼ of the dough and with the rest form a ball and flatten on the edge.

Separately make ‘bone’ shapes, you will need 4 long bones plus one ball that represents a skull.

Put the bread on a non-stick, floured baking tray or on some baking parchment.

Leave the bread and bones to rise for another ½ hr and when ready, decorate with the bones making a cross pattern and putting the ball on top.  Brush the whole of the bread with beaten egg and sprinkle with 2 Tbsp of caster sugar.

Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes at the indicated temperature, then lower the temperature by 20 C and leave for 20 minutes, then lower the temperature again by 20 C and leave for a further 20 minutes.

To see if the bread is cooked, it should sound hollow when tapped on the bottom, and should look golden brown and it should have risen quite a bit too!

Note.  This recipe makes a rustic version of bread of the dead which is more dense than commercial varieties.

It is a funny thing that whilst outside the street is a vampire party with everyone dressed mainly in black, inside the house the place is full of vibrant colours with a more solemn atmosphere, a funny contrast which seems go to well in our diverse society.